Saturday, February 11, 2006

Lace Edged V-Neck "Pattern"

I had requests on Craftster for the pattern for my alpaca Lace Edged V-Neck. I decided to post it here, so as not to overload Craftster. I wish I knew how to put up pdf files but, since I just recently figured out how to put buttons on the sidebar, I'm okay with baby-stepping my web-savvy-ness.

Lace Edge V-Neck
Knit in the round with knit on raglan sleeves.

Yarn: approximately 600g light worsted weight alpaca.
The yarn used in the original is no longer available and didn’t have yardage on the ball bands. I would guesstimate that each ball was about 85 yards. Definately less than 100. The original took just over 10 balls.
Needles: US7/4.5mm: 24 - 29 inch circular for body, 12 inch circular or dpns for sleeves.
The sleeves could be worked on 2 longer circulars or using magic loop. (there is one line in the lace pattern that has k3tog which is a bit frustrating on the short circular...)
Gauge 20 sts/26 rounds=4"

Size: One size fits: me. (I have no idea! Medium? Close fitting but not tight with waist shaping.)
Measurements (blocked)
Finished Bust: 39”
Length (shoulder to hem): 24”
Sleeve length (to underarm): 21”


Gothic Windows Lace Pattern
(pg. 120 Reader's Digest The Ultimate Sourcebook of Knitting and Crochet Stitches; 2003, Collins & Brown Limited; Elanor van Zandt, editor; adapted to be worked in the round)
Multiple of 8 sts + 2
Rnd 1: P4, *k2, p6; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k2, p4
Rnd 2: P4, *k2, p6; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k4
Rnd 3: P3, *k2tog, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k2tog, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p3
Rnd 4: P3, *k1, purl into front then back of next st, k1, p4; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k1, purl into front then back of next stitch, k1, p3
Rnd 5: P2, *k2tog, yo, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, repeat from * to end
Rnd 6: P2, *k6, p2; repeat from * to end
Rnd 7: K1, *k2tog, yo, k2tog, [yo, sl1, k1, psso] twice; repeat from * to last stitch, k1
Rnd 8: K4, *purl into back then front of next stitch, k6; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, purl into back then front of next stitch, k4
Rnd 9: K1, *[yo, sl1, k1, psso] twice, k2tog, yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, yo, k1
Rnd 10: P1, p1tbl, *k6, purl into front then back of next stitch; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, k6, p1tbl, p1
Rnd 11: P2, *yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k3tog, yo, p2; repeat from * to end
Rnd 12: P2, *p1tbl, k1, purl into front then back of next stitch, k1, p1tbl, p2; repeat from * to end
Rnd 13: P3, *yo, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, yo, p4, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, yo, p3
Rnd 14: P3, *p1 tbl, k2, p1 tbl, p4; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p1 tbl, k2, p1 tbl, p3

Body: Cast on 84, place marker for side, cast on 84, place marker for side and join in round being careful not to twist stitches. (168 stitches)
Rnd 1: *K1, work Gothic windows pattern across 82 stitches, k1, slip marker; repeat from * to end of round.
Continuing to work 1 knit stitch either side of side markers, work remaining 13 rounds of Gothic Windows pattern.
Next 6 rounds: **K1, p4, *k2, p6; repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k2, p4, k1; repeat from ** to end of round.
Next round (decrease round): *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before marker, ssk, k1, slip marker; repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 8 rounds even.
Repeat these 9 rounds once, then work one more decrease round. (12 stitches decreased: 156 stitches)
Knit 6 rounds even.
Next round (increase round): *K1, m1, knit to last stitch before marker, m1, k1, slip marker; repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 13 rounds even.
Repeat these 14 rounds two more times then work one more increase round. (172 stitches).
Knit every round until body measures 15” (or length you want from underarm to hem).
Next round: *Knit 5 stitches past marker. Place last 10 stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder. Repeat from *. Knit to end of round. Set aside.

Sleeves (make 2. Obviously.)
Cast on 42, place marker for beginning of round and join to knit in the round (being careful not to twist stitches).
Work 14 rounds of Gothic Windows pattern.
**NOTE: Sleeves will not have the additional knit stitches found on the body piece at each side. Work Gothic Windows pattern as written.
Next 6 rounds: **P4, *k2, p6; repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k2, p4; repeat from ** to end of round.
Knit 5 rounds even.
Next round (increase round): K1, m1, knit to last stitch before end of round, m1, k1.
Repeat these 6 rounds (5 rounds even, 1 increase round) 11 more times. (66 stitches)
Knit every round until sleeve reaches 21 inches (if you are like me and have orangutan length arms) or the length you need to the underarm.
Knit to 5 stitches past marker. Place last 10 stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder.
On needle for body, place marker for raglan decrease, knit across stitches from first sleeve, place marker, knit to next sleeve opening.
Make second sleeve, joining in the same manner.

Raglan Decreases/V-Neck Decreases:
(You should have 76 stitches for front, 56 stitches for each sleeve and 76 stitches for back.)
Knit 38 stitches, place marker for v-neck. This will now be the beginning of your rounds/rows.
Row 1(decrease round: sleeve only): *Knit to 3 stitches before sleeve marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog; repeat from * around.
Row 2: Knit (no decreases)
Row 3: repeat decrease round: sleeve only.
Row 4: Knit
Remove center marker. Take the last stitch on the right hand needle, pass it over the first stitch on the left hand needle, moving this stitch to the right hand needle. Swapping these stitches will prevent the gap in stitches that can occur when dividing for a v-neck.

Row 5 (decrease round: sleeve and v-neck): Slip 1 knitwise (with yarn in back), k1, k2tog, *Knit to 3 stitches before sleeve marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog; repeat from * to 4 stitches from center gap, ssk, k2.
Row 6 (and each even row): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to center gap.
Continue to work sleeve decreases every right side row. Work v-neck decreases on the following right side rows: 9, 13, 15, 17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41.

Work Sleeve decreases until there are 8 stitches between raglan markers.
**My notes break down at this point. There will be approximately 2-3 decrease rows when you will have 3 stitches before the first marker and after the last marker (for the front). On those rows, knit the front stitches even, working decreases for the stitches inside the sleeve markers and for the back.

Finish Neckline: With right side facing you, knit 3 stitches for right front. With these 3 stitches as your starting point, work i-cord bind-off across sleeves and back, grafting stitches to left front stitches.

I-Cord bind-off (as I do it. I have no idea if this is “right”)
On 3 stitches (either cast on or from existing live stitches)
Transfer 3 stitches just worked back to left hand needle. With dpn, knit 2, k2tog taking 1 stitch from dpn and 1 stitch from live stitches. Repeat this process until you have 3 stitches on the dpn and 3 live stitches from left front. Graft these stitches together.

Weave in ends and block. Wear. Accept compliments from admirers. Smile.

2 comments:

  1. Lovely sweater. Thanks for writing up a pattern. It's on my list for after the Olympics.

    ReplyDelete
  2. It's gorgeous, thanks for writing up the pattern - (sigh!) another thing for the 'to be knitted' pile

    ReplyDelete

Hi! I'm so glad you stopped by. I'd love to hear from you.